Jeanne and Dave

Krems, Austria is one of the oldest cities in the area; the first documented reference being in 995.  This area certainly reminded us of “The Sound of Music” and the crew dressed in appropriate Austrian costume.  Lederhosen outfits were abundant in the shops for infants through adults.  It’s all about apricots in this area since their soil and climate are perfect for growing this delicious fruit. During our visit to Göttweig Abbey, we saw apricot orchards near this baroque Benedictine monastery overlooking the Wachau section of the Danube Valley. Wachau is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It was Karaoke night after dinner and since it was Memorial Day and all guests are American, the evening ended with a pretty good rendition of “God Bless America”.

On the walkway where our ship is docked is an area for public exercise for those not on roller blades or bicycles, complete with 3 hammacks for resting following a rigorous workout. There are also 10 flags from each of the countries through which the Danube flows. Austria has been a shrinking country and now is only about 1/3 the size of Texas.  The Belvedere Palace now houses the Austrian Gallery.  This year marks the 100th year since the death of Gustav Klimt and many of his famous paintings, including “The Kiss” are displayed here along with some works by Monet, Manet and Renoir. 

For the ninth year in a row, Vienna has been named the most livable city in the world.  The Baroque style Schonbrunn Palace with its 1,441 rooms, hosted a meeting between JFK and Khrushchev in 1961.  It was the former summer residence of Habsburg rulers since 1569 and currently a UNESCO world heritage site.  The Millions room is paneled with rosewood and decorated with valuable miniature paintings from India and Persia.  The children cut out the miniature paintings to fit into the many existing gold frames which looked almost like a decorative wall paper. When the pictures didn’t quite fit, the children added clouds or a bit of sky to these miniatures.  Mozart entertained here on the piano when he was 6 years old.  The crew dressed in Mozart style costumes and we attended a musical concert where we were entertained by a symphony, opera singers and ballet. 

James Bond movie, The Living Daylights, was filmed here and featured their Opera House  See the contrast between school children in the city and those attending the little school about 45 minutes away where the teachers’ jobs include acting as social workers/parents to the Gypsies in the area.  Many students did not attend school today to avoid walking barefoot in the rain.   Our cruise line has a foundation which supports this school, Plavecky Stvrtok.  Just 3 years ago, there were bars on the windows and teachers locked students in the classrooms with doors that looked jail cell doors.  The principal and teachers were impressive with the loving care they showed the students. 

Divided into groups of 12, we experienced a home hosted lunch visit with a family here.  Although her husband was at work, he had built their outdoor patio, table, benches and wine cellar with his own hands~ inlaid marble pieces and beautiful wood!  Maria and her friend, Lydia served us homemade wine, homemade elderberry lemonade, ho memade dumplings with Chicken Paprikish soup,  ollowed by 2 desserts: homemade ginger-chocolate cake topped with homemade cherry jam and chocolate sauce and homemade shortcake with blueberries and raspberries.  Also, they served freshly picked cherries.  All delicious!  Maria’s children, 7, 9 and 12, retuned from school while we were there. They are now just now learning English but Russian was the language taught when Maria was in school.   Christmas decorations here include tiny boxes of chocolates hanging on their trees. 

The entire city of Budapest was beautifully lit, but Parliament was especially impressive.  In a park at the base of the chain bridge sits a statue of the number “0” with KM underneath.   It’s the zero kilometer stone used as the mile marker from which all roads in Hungary are measured.

This sculpture of 60 bronze shoes was created to commemorate 20,000 Jewish people who were forced to remove their shoes before they were shot and killed by the Arrow Cross Militia men along the Danube where their bodies would fall into the river.  Very powerful memorial.  

We boarded our river ship yesterday and had a delicious dinner after we were taught how to put on a life jacket.  This morning, we had a guided tour of Parliament where we saw the Hungarian crown jewels. President Carter returned these to Hungary in 1976, after they were in safe keeping at Ft Knox during WWII.  We arrived in time to see the Hungarian flag being raised.  There was a military presence throughout the tour.  Interior was generously adorned with 22k gold.

When we stopped at a little shop to try their cinnamon and chocolate Kurtoskalacs (strips of dough wrapped around a rod and then cooked and rolled in coverings while still warm), a nice German man sat at our table.  He asked if we spoke any German. Dave said, yes and quoted JFK’s “ich bin ein Berliner” from his famous speech during the Cold War to show solidarity with Berlin.  Our new German friend informed us that the literal translation was “I am a jelly filled donut”.  

Dave finally had a good cup of coffee that can rival what he makes at home.  Then we had a  long (3 hour) walk to see the New York Palace Hotel in spite of numerous instructions saying it was only 12 minutes down the street and to the left.  It was worth it.  It felt like Florence Italy with hand painted ceilings, lots of gold trim and musicians.  The pianist alternated playing with a group of musicians called the “gypsies” by our waitress.  I’m attaching a photo. 

Last night’s skewered chicken was pink due to some kind of paparika rub.  Toured Castle Hill by taking an open air tram uphill and through narrow streets uphill and through a tunnel with a very high ceiling downhill.  At fisherman’s bastion, we listened to a couple of elderly men playing a violin and cello at the bottom of one set of stairs.  So much of the city is very old and beautiful.  Enjoyed authentic Hungarian goulash and authentic Wiener schnitzel, both of which were delicious. Everyone speaks English fluently.  Our Fit bits say we walked over 6 miles today.  

 We made it!    View from our room of the beautiful Danube River!

Heather helped me set us this blog!

Leaving Thursday for River Trip on the Danube!  Will arrive in Budapest on Friday evening and will post on this site when WiFi is available.